Phoenician: Fountain in the Desert

Written by Richard Arebalo

I’ve been traveling to the Phoenix / Scottsdale area for the better part of 40 years. I started my career with Motorola, which had its semiconductor headquarters in the heart of Phoenix and its roots in the area back to the late 1940s. On most business trips, we visited Scottsdale for great dining, bars, high-end shopping, and the charm of its “Old Town.” Though Motorola was generous with business travel in the early days, the lavish Phoenician resort, perched high against Camelback Mountain and featured on “Lifestyles of the Rich & Famous,” was definitely not on the list for young expense accounts. For a little extra context, nearby Scottsdale Road for a time hosted two Rolls Royce dealerships.
The Phoenician, which opened in 1988, was the brainchild of Charles Keating, who wanted the hotel to be an “8th wonder of the world.” Carrera marble was imported from Italy for the vast lobby, and the wide dome just above the entrance was detailed with 24-carat gold. Still evocative today, landscapers were brought in from Tonga to create a romantic tropical look for the grounds of the resort. The Phoenician was estimated to have cost over $300 million to build, with the ‘mother of pearl’ pool costing a cool million on its own.
Through a succession of buyouts over the decades, The Phoenician is now a Host Hotels & Resorts property, managed by Marriott International under its spectacular ‘The Luxury Collection’ brand. A bit of research shows The Phoenician in the same family of hotels as the famed Gritti Place in Venice, the Prince de Galle in Paris, and 120 other gleaming sister properties in the US, South America, Africa, Asia, the Middle East, and most of the capitals of Europe.
As you enter the nearly 300-acre property off Camelback Road, you drive past the beautifully manicured Phoenician Golf Club. In 2018, course architect Phil Smith combined the three previous 9-hole courses into one 18-hole Championship golf course melding pristine fairways with stunning Sonoran Desert vistas.
A striking feature at the front of the property is the historic Jokake Inn. Originally a private home built in 1926, the tall mission-like building eventually became a guest inn and now its grounds are used for events by The Phoenician. “Raising Arizona” fans will recognize the structure as the home featured in the dark comedy.
The large, new building just behind the Inn is The Phoenician Athletic Club. A very generous 4,600 sq. ft. fitness center offers cardio machines, weights, and a movement studio. Outside, the facility features a basketball half-court, seven tennis courts and two Pickleball courts.
As you drive to the main lobby, the first thing you notice is the large fountain in the circular porte cochere. Dozens of closely spaced jets produce a beautiful fluted effect and, together with the mountain backdrop, give the unmistakable sense of an opulent oasis.
I was lucky enough to get a tour of the property by PR Director Denise Seomin. We used one of the small fleet of golf carts to make quick time around the property. (The chauffeured carts are available by request anytime by calling the front desk).
The resort is really more of a campus, with the main building providing the bulk of the large rooms and suites, followed by the stand-alone “Casitas,” which some suites at 1,700 sq. ft. feel more like a comfortable home than a hotel. To the west of the main complex is the over-the-top Canyon Suites, a resort within a resort.
The concentric semi-circular plan of the main building allows for discrete though limited mountain views on the backside, while the front building provides grand vistas of the pool facilities, golf course, and the Phoenix valley. The semi-circular arrangement of the Casitas facing the main building has stunning views of Camelback Mountain, while the back units focus more on large intimate patios.
The main building hosts a variety of rooms and suites, ranging from a well-above-average 600 sq. ft. superior room to 1,200 sq. ft. suites topping out at the enormous 4,000 sq. ft. Presidential Suite.
All the rooms, including The Canyon Suites, were completely remodeled in 2016. The rooms are primarily done in earth tones, and some have large expanses of natural quartz on dressers and tabletops. The interiors are a mixture of modern design, retro lighting, and subtle Sonoran influences in the furnishings, with work from Arizona artists adorning the walls.
Oversized bathrooms are decorated with Italian marble and have separate baths and showers. Full-width sliding glass doors lead to a private terrace or balcony with lounge chairs and tables.
On this stay, I was in one of the outer casitas. The collection of 12, two-story buildings features 119 guestrooms and suites. Some inner casitas feature outdoor fire tables with romantic views of Necklace Lake and the hotel beyond. Doorstep parking at the casitas is a plus for quick trips off-campus.
The Casitas come in various configurations, from 530 sq. ft. guestrooms to 1,200 sq.ft. suites, to grand 1,700 sq. ft. 2-bedroom suites.
Our two-bedroom suite had three amazing full baths and a very functional kitchenette. The large parlor focused on an oversized travertine fireplace surrounded by a sleek modular sofa. The suite contained a full-sized dining table that could easily accommodate six guests. A modern metal chandelier over the table was a nice touch.
Sliding glass doors across the width of the suite led to two large, separate terraces, which are great amenities on quiet mornings and late evenings.
Regardless of room configuration, the bathrooms feel like mini spas on their own, with unusually deep soaking tubs, large showers, and louvered doors separating water closets. Fragrant Byredo bath products and plush bathrobes continue the spa feel throughout the room.
I briefly visited the boutique Canyon Suites, the only Forbes Five Star and AAA Five Diamond hotel in the greater Phoenix area. The facility hosts a separate welcome/reception area from the main hotel with in-room check-in, and has its own waterfall, a serene, desert-themed swimming pool and a suite of storybook cabanas serviced by their own bar & grill.
As you walk in the lobby, you notice a beautiful fragrance called “golden bamboo,” exclusive to the hotel and providing a hint of its glorious past. The Canyon Suites site was previously home to the Elizabeth Arden, Maine Chance Day Spa, which opened the doors to its first facility in 1946, and was famous for its glittering Hollywood clientele.
The 60-room Canyon Suites, freshly renovated in 2016, offers a variety of exclusive services, including a daily executive breakfast and a chauffeur-driven luxury car to and from Scottsdale Fashion Square Mall. Guests here also have access to all of the amenities of the main Phoenician resort.
The Phoenician, like many resorts, offers a host of restaurants, but the spectacular views and romance of J&G Steakhouse are unique. The elegant indoor/outdoor venue whose concept was a collaboration with legendary, Michelin-starred Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten features a menu that focuses on a variety of steaks, from flavorful filets to fine, dry-aged New York strips to an astounding 30oz Wagyu Tomahawk Ribeye.
That said, several seafood selections like Slow-Cooked Salmon with Truffle Vinaigrette, Dover Sole Grenobloise, and fresh Alaskan King Crab Legs are available for those not inclined towards 30oz steaks. The Tuna Tartare with Avocado and Spicy Radish Ginger Marinade created by Chef Jacques Qualin was one of the nicest things I’ve had anywhere.
Nearly a dozen sides like classic Mac & Cheese (Lobster version available), Potato Gratin with Comté and a terrific Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with pecans and aged balsamic, allow for a multitude of great combinations. Though most are typical of high-end steak houses, each seemed to have a refinement that made them stand out against other examples.
We found that as good as our steaks were, we were blown away by the flavor of the Smoked Chili Glaze, the J&G steak sauce, and a beautifully crafted Bearnaise.
If possible, leave room for the J&G cheesecake, topped with a diced pear compote and an excellent pear sorbet.
J&G’s wine selection is strongest from California and France but still benefits from decades of curation by the resort’s late Master Sommelier Greg Tresner. A beautiful 2001 Chateau Pape Clément certainly elevated our meal. F&B Operations Manager Taylor Chandler, now in charge of the venerable wine cellar, looks forward to expanding its collection, starting with Champagne. Considering the celebratory nature of J&G, I think that is a great place to start.
The Phoenician also hosts a variety of more casual dining locations like the popular Mowry & Cotton. Its location directly above the main pool allows for incredible views while dining throughout the day.
The menu here focuses on a variety of flatbreads, unique grains, fresh salads, and many wood-grilled items. Mowry & Cotton’s selections hint at carefully selected, healthy items, but outstanding burgers, chicken sandwiches, and even tacos are also available.
A little bit of excitement happened as we were having lunch one afternoon. As guests abandoned their tables, a small band of grackles moved in to finish the leftovers. The hotel’s elegant remedy is a hawk patrol. We got to meet one member, called “Hitman.” The hawks roam the property with their handlers and either dispatch the birds or at least convey the lack of welcome. Interestingly in flight over the main pool, Hitman was absolutely silent as it swooped from one side of the cabanas to the other.
Rounding out the 2019 renovation was the premiere of The Phoenician Tavern, located above the golf clubhouse. The traditional club-like restaurant features a great menu of polished pub favorites. On one visit, my guest was craving a simple grilled cheese sandwich and was delighted by a deftly made classic served with French fries. Though not on the menu, the staff found a simple way to make the lady happy. Great burgers, large salads, and craft beers make this a comfortable dining spot.
The next day allowed us to spend some time at the main swimming area arranged on several levels. The middle level has a pool and cabanas reserved for adults only, while a separate area complete with a treehouse, splash pad and water slide is a kid favorite. We booked one of the cabanas on the lower level and loved the amenities. The generously sized cabanas came complete with flat-screen televisions and wait-service from Kalio Kabobery. The restaurant has a full menu of light Mediterranean specialties and a wide assortment of cocktails and beer available poolside. Large palms surround the pool area, and the views make you want to linger the whole afternoon.
Despite all of the luxurious amenities at The Phoenician, one three-story, stand-alone building across Necklace Lake from the main pool is a must-visit.
Debuted in 2018, the entirely new three-level Phoenician Spa offers 24 treatment rooms, a couple’s suite, a fitness center with movement studio, a rooftop pool with incredible mountain vistas, a retail shop, a nail lounge, and the Drybar blow-dry salon.
I took advantage of the Forbes Five Star-rated facility on two separate days, indulging in an 80- min. ‘Phoenix Rising Scrub & Massage’ and a very relaxing 50-min. ‘Gentleman’s Personal Remedy’ facial treatment. Both were soothing and amazing in their results.
Beyond the soaring atrium, which sports a modern Phoenix sculpture suspended from the ceiling, the spa has a very hushed and soothing interior. Once checked in and settled into lockers, you change into a thick robe to wait for your masseuse or aesthetician. The public rooms have a palpable calm, with a pre-treatment lounge and a post-treatment Quiet Relaxation Room for a little nap. Indeed, wandering the halls with a glass of Champagne from treatment to treatment is not as terrible a life as it would seem.
Like most of the facilities, a focus on delicate fragrance adds to the calm of the environment. I got two versions of Neroli to bring the beautiful calm closer to home.
There are many resorts in the Phoenix, Scottsdale area from which to choose; however, one small note mentioned by Denise stayed in my mind…
How many have had a Church ask to film there as a stand-in for Heaven?

Richard Arebalo
OTL Features Editor