Mountain Shadows Still Swings in an Iconic Setting

Sometimes in this busy life, it’s healthy – on occasion – to just pull a disappearing act, to travel like we did before being “connected” meant practically being handcuffed. It’s refreshing, occasionally, to not be that guy who brings his laptop and all three cell phones on a golf trip.
Recently, I found the understated, yet pleasingly posh Mountain Shadows – a resort with a deep history and vibrant present – the perfect desert hideaway for recharging the battery and developing a deeper appreciation for the special nuances that make Scottsdale and Paradise Valley among the most sought-after places to live and recreate.

Situated uncannily close to Camelback Mountain, literally in its shadows, and only a couple of Cameron Champ driver swings from the equally stunning Mummy Mountain, Mountain Shadows makes you feel like there might not be a more ideal address in the entire Valley of the Sun. The original 1959 iteration of this chic resort predates the official 1961 founding of Paradise Valley and survived nearly five decades as an iconic destination for honeymoons, fancy getaways, swinging jazz, epic soirees and visits by Hollywood icons and political dignitaries. In its heyday, Mountain Shadows was the sort of place where the Rat Pack would blend in perfectly and well-heeled revelers would go to see and be seen.
During my visit, person after person would tell me about their personal connections to the resort. From prom celebrations to special anniversary dinners and unforgettable Jazz Nights, so many people hold a special fondness for this charming boutique resort.
By the 2000s, the Mountain Shadows of the 60s and 70s had lost its luster and sat in limbo before a visionary team brought the historic property back from the ashes. Where else but in a place called Phoenix can place rise to new heights and embark on a new history that still pay homage to its swinging roots?
Today’s Mountain Shadows, which debuted in 2017, is a Mid-Century Modern playground that maintains its hipster credibility while appealing to the guest who prefers luxury touches throughout the property. Mountain Shadows showcases a “desert modern” design throughout its common areas and 183 guestrooms. The inviting Hearth ’61 restaurant offers a lively open design with show-stopping exhibition kitchen, sunken living room lounge and expansive, retro-luxe bar area. Retractable floor-ceiling glass doors invite remarkable views of the desert landscape and the comfortingly ubiquitous Camelback Mountain.

Two luxurious and well-staffed pools, a cutting-edge fitness facility stay active day and night while the completely renovated 18-hole par-three short course is a full-scale golf operation with manicured fairways, greens and roughs, golf cars or push carts, and a full-service al fresco golf grill and lounge.  
To wake up literally in the shadows of Camelback is a rejuvenating feeling. The property has such a simple yet elegant flow that I quickly developed morning ritual that consisted of grabbing a putter and two balls and walking on my way out of my stylish guest room, admiring the original works at the Gallery at Mountain Shadows then grabbing a coffee at Rusty’s bar, which is just a few steps from the practice green. I’d follow that with a walk around the neighborhood, which included the J.W. Marriott Camelback Inn which is just across Lincoln Drive from Mountain Shadows. I met a friend there for brunch one day and, one night, tagged along with golfing partners I met that day for dinner at the beloved El Chorro, a fine-dining landmark since 1937.
Back at the bar at Hearth ’61, I ended up next to a couple in the bar who had to be in their late 70s who had been coming there to listen and dance to jazz all the way back to the early 1960s. It was their spot there and it still is today when they want to come enjoy a cocktail and the sunset.

Then there are the younger generations. During my stay mountain shadows hosted two weddings and a bachelorette party that seem to fill up a good half of the property. Bountiful energy and nonstop action all around Mountain Shadows made the visit even more unique. Everything at this property feels like an invite-only affair thanks to the intimate setting.

The par-three Short Course at Mountain Shadows is an expertly manicured creation with endlessly interesting green complexes a delightfully walkable routing. The incomparable setting makes you feel like you’re literally going wind into and out of the Camelback Mountain. I never realized the natural formation actually includes the camel’s face as well as his famous back.

Also, throw out any notion you have a par three course offered as an “afterthought” or squeezed-in amenity. Mountain Shadows is every bit the type of expertly run golf operation you’ll find throughout Scottsdale. Every detail is presented to the scale you would find at the highest tier of resort golf. The course itself, designed over a previous Jack Snyder design, is pure fun with ample creativity and shot values for days. You’ll face double greens, Redan, Biarritz, Thumbprint and Punch Bowl greens that will challenge your trajectory and angles of attack.

And, you might as well bring your entire bag (probably minus driver and 3-wood) as holes range from lob wedge distances all the way up to 200 yards. The first time playing the course is a treat as you don’t know how you’re going to be tested next. I pured a gap wedge on the first tee and thought the five-foot downhill birdie putt would just pour in. It streaked by the hole and I can’t remember the last time I was that relieved to jar a six-foot par save. The variety of holes is a blast, including the Forrest Wager hole, the penultimate experience on this Short Course. It’s mini Himalayas-style putting hole that seems to break 5 different ways depending on where the flag is set. Our group was so flummoxed – and thrilled – by it, we played it four times.

Director of Golf and Club Operations Tom McCahan says the variety of the clientele is another good indicator of the quality of the golfing experience on the Short Course. “You’ll see everything from beginners to couples to large guys’ trip groups and even your fair share of professional players from developmental tours come tackle this golf course and walk away with a genuine appreciation for the shot values and the fun,” McCahan says. “We’ve even had Bubba Watson come out here and play the course. He’s been working on a video series where goes to different courses and tries to break the course record. He got it going for a little while but ending up finishing one-under. The course record is nine under and you need some local knowledge to chase that. He really enjoyed the golf course, though, and when he came in, he was vividly recalling holes he liked and the design features you just don’t see at most places. That was amazing feedback.”

The Short Course is one you could play every day. In fact, I can think of few better ways to start a day. What’s equally cool is how well Mountain Shadows works as a home base for other adventures. I worked in rounds at Arizona Biltmore Golf Club, Talking Stick and even a quick nine at Gainey Ranch during my stay. They were all short drives from my launching pad and I still had plenty of time on Mountain Shadow’s Short Course.

As the visitor’s guide in my room states, Mountain Shadows is also an easily place to travel from to see some of Phoenix-Scottsdale’s best sites, just four miles to Scottsdale Fashion Square, half a mile to Camelback Mountain, seven miles to the Desert Botanical Garden and five miles to Cosanti art gallery and studio. It’s the kind of thoughtfully appointed boutique hotel that you never have to leave, but if you want to, you’ll find you’re never far from the heart of the action.

Benchmark Resorts & Hotels’ $100 million investment in revitalizing this property seems to be paying off brilliantly. Between the hotel, golf course, food and beverage operations, health club and attached residences, this destination provides a quintessential desert vacation that’s as low key or as thrilling as you want it to be. If you want to see Scottsdale and surrounding attractions in a whole new way, booking a stay at Mountain Shadows is a fantastic way to start. Learn more at mountainshadows.com.