Over time with son Mike and close collaborators like Scotty Troilo, the group launched some of the country’s most successful steak houses and eventually some fine seafood restaurants as well.
Mastro’s was sold to a private firm in 2007, expanded, and was eventually bought by Landry’s, which owns steak powerhouses like Morton’s, The Palm, and Vic & Anthony’s.
Mastro’s City Hall, opened in 2002, was the third Mastro’s restaurant behind the phenomenally successful Beverly Hills location.
Part of the great strength of the brand is that they all share the original Mastro’s template of great atmosphere, on-point service, and above all, some the best beef and seafood available (albeit at a handsome price).
In 2019, the storied restaurant on the steps of Scottsdale’s Fashion Square received a complete renovation yielding the tony venue we have today.
As you walk in the front door, you’re struck with an impression of art gallery meets speakeasy. A twisting, red glass chandelier greets you, followed by a long picture-filled corridor that runs the length of the dining room. The combination of pristine white tablecloths and vintage-styled chrome table lights contrasts beautifully with the gray chairs and the wood and black trim throughout the room. The new mid-century style chandeliers complete the modern, sophisticated look.
Though typical of a steakhouse, the dinner menu definitely leans towards the opulent and even decadent. Ubiquitous appetizers like shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, and oysters on the half shell are offered alongside rarer lobster cocktail, Alaskan Red King Crab Claws, and Caviar.
Classic Lobster Bisque is offered, as is French Onion Soup. Various salads are on the menu and are far larger than average by all accounts.
About a dozen different steaks are available, ranging from a 6oz standard fillet to a monster 40oz Tomahawk. New York strips, Kanas City strips, Ribeyes, and Porterhouse cuts are available in 8, 10, 12, 20, 22, and 32oz sizes. Most steaks are wet-aged for 28 days, but Ribeyes are occasionally offered dry-aged (a personal favorite)
The steaks are broiled under an astounding 1,500-degree flame and are brought to table on 400-degree platters. Rack of Lamb, Pork Chops, and Roast Chicken dutifully round out the meat selections.
Four sushi rolls; Tuna Jalapeño, Lime Maguro, Clear Lobster, and Wagyu are also an exclusive menu option developed for Mastro’s by Chef Angel Carbajal of “Nicksan” in Cabo San Lucas.
An incredible eighteen different sides are available, including stand-outs like Lobster Mashed Potatoes, Wild Mushroom, and Black Truffle Gnocchi. Given the choice of a 40oz Tomahawk, why not add a “1-pound baked potato.”
A quick google search confirms that this dessert does indeed have a cult following.
The recipe starts with a yellow cake batter topped with a sweet cream cheese frosting added before it’s baked. The cream cheese basically melts into the cake. The baked cake is then flipped upside down and given a torched sugar top creating a slightly crunchy layer.
The final product is served with fresh fruit and a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream. This dessert can certainly be shared, but it shouldn’t be missed.
As the evening got later, a younger though very well-dressed crowd began to arrive at the restaurant. Like any manager will tell you, great energy in a restaurant is always a plus regardless of its other charms.
Thoroughly sated, we promptly received our cars from the valet but just a little less content as we watched the Lamborghini pull up behind. Its owners surely in for a less than a typical night at Mastro’s.
Richard Arebalo
OTL Features Editor
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